For my prom, my mom styled my hair all curly and pretty, pulling part of the sides up and securing them with a pair of her vintage hair combs.
They were faux tortoiseshell and had a silver metal strip at the top with a row of rhinestones. They added the perfect touch of sparkle to my hair, and I felt so fancy wearing them.
Though many people only wear hair combs for special occasions like proms and weddings, women once commonly wore these decorative objects as a regular part of their daily attire.
Collectors also prize antique and vintage hair combs today for their beauty, history, and for their stylish way of securing coiffures.
EARLY HAIR COMBS
Long before bobby pins and hairspray, decorative hair combs kept flowing locks from flying everywhere and were regularly worn in cultures worldwide for centuries. Evolving from practical tools to elaborate accessories, they were considered an essential part of a woman’s wardrobe. If you were wealthy and could afford gold and silver pieces decorated with diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones, you better believe you would show them off daily in your sophisticated updos.
The earliest hair combs date back to the Stone Age and were made of animal bones, shells, and wood. In ancient Egypt and Persia, combs were used for practical purposes and decoration, while in ancient China, they were used as ornaments that held high status and artistic value. Greeks and Romans used combs made of gold, bronze, and iron.
Hair combs eventually became more detailed and were crafted from natural materials, including coral, gemstones, horn, ivory, jet, pearls, and precious metals, and often decorated with intricate patterns.
Ornamental combs were especially important as a symbol of status in Japan during the Edo Period (1603-1868). They were made of ivory, lacquer, or tortoiseshell, or carved from aromatic woods like cherry and plum. The combs, called kushi, were decorated with beautiful inlays made of enamel, precious metals, or mother-of-pearl and signified a woman’s class, religion, and wealth.
HAIR COMBS IN THE 19TH CENTURY
Though decorative hair combs dipped in popularity during the Regency period, they were back in demand during the Victorian era when changing hairstyles made them again necessary accessories to add the finishing touch to buns, braids, coils, curls, topknots, and other elegant coiffeurs. They were also used as handy tools to secure extensions and hair pieces for those who needed to achieve the illusion of more abundant locks.
While wealthy Victorian women continued to favor extravagant hair combs made from precious metals and embellished with seed pearls and other valuable materials, combs began being produced in man-made substances that not only reflected the era’s advancements in production methods but were also more affordable. These materials included metals like aluminum, brass, pewter, and plastics such as celluloid, a thermoplastic invented in the late 1860s.
Celluloid could be made to mimic tortoiseshell at a fraction of the cost, and hair ornaments made from it were just as appealing as the real thing and found a ready market. The success of celluloid was also fortunate for the Hawksbill turtle, which had become critically endangered due to decades of being harvested for its shell.
Large Spanish ornamental pineta combs, used to hold up a mantilla, a lace or silk veil, were also popular.
At the end of the century, many art nouveau artists began producing hair combs, including French designers René Lalique and Lucien Gaillard, and Swiss decorative artist Eugène Grasset, known for their dazzling pieces crafted from horn and featuring butterflies, birds, dragonflies, female forms, flowers, and trees. Combs by these artists generally only appear at auctions and can sell for a hair-raising six figures.
TRENDS IN THE 20TH CENTURY
Hair combs continued to be popular in the 20th century, with various mass-produced plastics finding favor due to their affordability and durability. Other pieces continued to be made of precious metals and embellished with diamonds and other gems. Notable makers of some of the best hair combs of the 20th century include French designer Auguste Bonaz and American costume jewelry designer Miriam Haskell.
When bobs were the rage in the 1920s and ’30s, hair combs were primarily used for decorative appeal. They were made of Bakelite, celluloid, and plastic, and adorned with art deco patterns, beads, enamel, feathers, filigree detailing, and rhinestones. These combs are among collectors’ favorites.
During the mid-century, hair combs were often used to hold a fashionable hat in place, but still served as a glittering accompaniment to evening wear and to adorn all the bouffants that were in vogue.
Danish silversmith Georg Jensen and his company were renowned for the craftsmanship of their silver pieces, which included hair combs that are rare and highly sought-after by collectors. This sterling silver piece adorned with moonstones, circa 1925-1932, sold for $1,825 in 2023.
In recent decades, plastic hair combs made by companies like Goody have remained solid sellers for modern women, with more elaborate pieces, like those covered with faux gemstones, being popular accessories for special occasions.
Aurora borealis stones accent a pair of hair combs from the 1950s. During the ’50s, these stones were widely used in costume jewelry for their rainbow-like shimmer. This pretty pair sold for only $8.50 in 2024.
A LEGACY OF COLLECTIBLE HAIR COMBS
Thanks to their popularity for centuries and being produced in various styles, materials, and colors to reflect changing trends, collectors have a vast array of hair combs to choose from at different price points.
If your budget allows, the best hair combs to acquire are those made from precious materials, like gold, silver, and anything with semi-precious stones, as these will likely always hold value. Also valuable and prized are pieces made by famous designers and companies like Tiffany, as well as Native American and Mexican artists. These hair combs can sell from around $150 to tens of thousands. The highest-priced hair comb recorded in WorthPoint’s database is a tortoiseshell piece made by Austrian designer Josef Hoffmann that sold for $47,500 in 2020 and features gilt silver, cultured pearls, and mother-of-pearl.
Many other pretty hair combs can be found at thrift stores and online marketplaces for under $15, making it an easy collecting hobby to start.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or looking for a simple way to add an elegant touch to your hairstyle, hair combs are a timeless choice. With their rich history, beautiful designs, and practical uses, it’s no wonder these treasures have endured for centuries.
Adina K. Francis has been a writer and editor in the antiques and collectibles field for more than twenty years. She has a bit of an obsession with the Victorians and thinks that dogs are one of life’s greatest gifts.
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