I’ve always been a chinos guy—my closet is packed with khakis in every imaginable shade of beige. I think I wasn’t into denim mainly because of the 2010s fashion—skinny and distressed jeans were everywhere, which aren’t my style. But in recent years, selvedge denim has been on the rise among fashion enthusiasts. When I tried my first pair, I was hooked. And I’m not alone—thousands of people have embraced selvedge denim, sparking a new market. There’s no better time to dive into the world of selvedge denim.
Selvedge denim, short for “self-edge,” refers to the tightly woven edge of the fabric produced by the older shuttle looms. These looms were slower and prone to creating imperfections in the denim. For denimheads, these so-called flaws add texture and personality. Although selvedge denim itself doesn’t guarantee a higher quality, it is reminiscent of a time when brands prioritized craftsmanship and longevity over mass production. This same philosophy is embraced by many current-day selvedge manufacturers.
THREADS OF THE PAST
In 2022, a pair of Levi’s jeans dating back to the 19th century sold for $87,000 in an auction. This price might seem too high, but it’s been a trend across all vintage denim items. Just for comparison: a mint-condition pair of jeans dating back to 1928 sold for $78 in 2010. In 2025, a heavily worn pair of jeans from the early 1920s sold for $1,175.
One of the main reasons why older denim is more valuable is the fabric. Modern jeans are often pre-washed or treated to achieve a faded look and softer feel. This can make the fabric initially feel more comfortable, but it also reduces its longevity. In contrast, denim from the past was sold raw, making it heavier and more durable even after years of wear. Additionally, vintage denim is made from 100% cotton, unlike many of today’s jeans, which often include synthetic blends for added stretch and flexibility.
The unwashed denim is prone to fading in unique ways. For example, if the owner of the jeans places his wallet in his back pocket, the jeans, over time, will have a fade in the back pocket outlining the wallet’s shape. The jeans that sold for $1,175 may have gained value because of these personal fades rather than despite them. In a way, they’re a piece of archaeology. The seller of this pair claimed that the owner was a cowboy, and you can get a glimpse of his rugged lifestyle by looking at the wear and tear of the jeans.
Most American jeans brands, including Levi’s, began to switch from older shuttle looms in the 1950s. By the 1970s, almost all production was done in projectile looms, which are now the standard. This means that if you have any jeans at home over fifty years old, chances are they’re worth something. As you can see, their condition doesn’t matter. Even some details you might consider “defects,” like a pronounced leg twist due to washing, add to the charm of the pair for denim enthusiasts.
FROM JAPAN, WITH FADE
Japanese denim has become synonymous with quality denim. The main reason is because of Japanese craftsmanship, which often values the use of quality techniques and materials over mass production. For decades, Japan has also taken great inspiration from old production methods used previously by American manufacturers.
Some of the best brands to consider from Japan are Iron Heart and Samurai. Iron Heart jeans are known for their ruggedness and practicality and are especially popular among Japanese bikers. Samurai jeans share similar qualities, but the brand is also known for experimenting with different types of cotton and dyeing techniques.
These brands often produce modern recreations of vintage Levi’s jeans. However, they’ve also evolved to establish their own identity and values. I’d say that, at times, they’ve even surpassed the quality of the original vintage pieces. Because of this, I think Japanese denim brands offer some of the best options if you’re seeking true heritage jeans. I’d even recommend them over Levi’s official recreations of their classic models in selvedge denim.
RIVETING QUALITY FOR EVERYONE
I began this article complaining about skinny jeans. While it’s true that some brands offering selvedge denim might offer models in a more traditional and roomier cut, this isn’t necessarily a “feature” of selvedge denim. In fact, most selvedge denim jeans today likely come in trendy cuts, trying to appeal to a wider audience. Selvedge denim is also available in many colors, such as this brown tone by Gustin.
In the end, the world of selvedge denim is all about high-quality garments that’ll last you for a lifetime. No matter old or new, make sure that the jeans that you buy have a solid construction and are pure cotton. There are other hallmarks of high-quality denim, such as leather patches and functioning rivets. Vendors will usually point out these features so you can make a more informed decision for your purchases.
David Espino-Lozada is a writer and editor with a passion for literature and poetry. He has published numerous articles and is also involved in writing sci-fi for video games. An avid collector, David has an extensive collection of books, music, and vintage male clothing. When he’s not writing, he enjoys diving into the depths of the internet and libraries, indulging his fascination with the world of collectibles and heirlooms.
WorthPoint—Discover. Value. Preserve.
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