The Enduring Allure of Art Deco Jewelry

Over the past year or so, there’s been lots of talk, from home magazines to fashion blogs, about art deco making a comeback. Truthfully, though, collectors have never taken their finger off the pulse of art deco as it has moved in and out of the mainstream spotlight. Jewelry fans, in particular, have continued to buy these amazing designs with steadfast devotion, and some of those treasures are now true antiques.

One of the great things about a trend like this current art deco one is seeing a new group of admirers gain an interest in the allure of the Jazz Age. If you’ve been an admirer for decades, you likely know what to look for in deco styling. If you’re one of the new folks being welcomed into the fold, I’ll give you a little overview of jewelry with these attributes. Deco designs are perennial good sellers, so being able to market them correctly will serve you well if you plan on passing your finds on to others.

Art Deco Background

Art deco gained momentum from the 1920s through the mid-1930s, fueled by post-World War II ideals that rapidly pushed change. As the 1920s progressed, transportation modes became faster than ever, hemlines rose significantly, and architecture took on a distinctly new appearance. Influences on design were found at every turn.

The opening of King Tut’s tomb, the popularity of the Ballet Russes, and an interest in global influences led to related motifs and colors being used in fashionable ways. The geometric expression of Cubism in art influenced all aspects of design during this period as well. Modern design was the main entry requirement when the International Exposition des Arts Decoratifs took place in Paris in 1925. These influences culminated in adornment drawing on popular culture but reworked in a new and exciting way.

Recognizing Art Deco Jewelry

There are a couple of rules of thumb I’ve come to rely on when evaluating art deco jewelry. First, in contrast to earlier art nouveau pieces, which have an abundance of free-flowing curves, art deco designs include more straight lines and geometric shapes. Sometimes, you’ll find flowers or bows or some carryover influences like filigree in jewelry made during the ‘20s, but most deco designs have a defining sense of symmetry.

Another helpful tip is to look at a design and draw an imaginary line down the center. Art deco pieces often look the same on both sides, as if you’re viewing a mirror image.

Also, a look through issues of Vogue from the ‘20s and early ‘30s reminds us that while we tend to think of flapper attire when art deco fashion comes to mind, many of the deco jewelry pieces we hold dear date to the early 1930s. Instead of drop-waist styles with long strands of flapper beads, by the ‘30s, women were wearing belted dresses.

Later in the period, deco jewelry included convertible brooches that separated into two dress clips, multiple strands of pearls with deco clasps in necklaces or bracelets, and a variety of colored gemstone rings. Costume jewelry companies produced their own versions of many of the most popular and striking designs to make them affordable for a broader range of consumers.

Materials and Stones Used in Art Deco Jewelry

The use of white metal in the form of gold or platinum carried over from the Edwardian era in fine art deco jewelry. Diamonds also continued to be prevalent, another commonality with jewelry made earlier in the 1900s. They were made more dramatic in deco jewelry when contrasted with vivid rubies, sapphires, and emeralds—colors inspired by the Ballet Russes, according to C. Jeanenne Bell in Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. They’re also reminiscent of jewelry originating in India when carved into shapes. For example, some of Cartier’s Tutti Frutti pieces have an abundance of small fruits carved from gemstones. Carved jade was also used for designs with Asian motifs, along with glossy black enameling. Many gemstones were cut into high-domed or bullet cabochons during this period, too.

Of course, we can’t forget that in 1929, times changed again. Fine jewelry was reserved for the wealthiest individuals during the Great Depression, and the rise of costume jewelry began in earnest during the ‘30s as demand increased. Settings used were still made of plated metals like they were in the ‘20s, but as a cost-saving measure, some pieces were left unplated so that the soft gray finish of the base metal—usually referenced as pot metal—could be seen.

Stones included an abundance of clear rhinestones to imitate diamonds, and colored glass stones were incorporated to replace precious gems. Trifari’s “Fruit Salad” designs featuring molded glass stones, for example, were inspired by Cartier’s Tutti Frutti masterpieces. Many other designs filtered down to costume jewelry, with molded glass stones decorating it to imitate jade, star sapphire, onyx, rock crystal, and coral. Marcasite and silver jewelry also served as a substitute for more costly diamond jewelry made of precious metals during the deco years.

Other Things to Look for in Art Deco Jewelry

Some jewelry findings and art deco go hand in hand. For instance, dress clips were a product of this period. These can sometimes be confused with shoe clips, but the paddle part of the clip is usually larger than those used for footwear. Concurrently, the convertible double-clip brooches made during this period were fitted with dress clips rather than pointy double-pronged clips found in 1940s examples. They were first created as fine jewelry and then patented as the “Duette” by Coro and named “Clip Mates” by Trifari in costume jewelry.

Most of the earrings dating to the 1920s and ‘30s were originally screw backs. Many fine jewelry examples from this period were converted to pierced earrings over the past century to be worn more securely. Some costume jewelry versions have also been converted, but many amazing pairs of dangling art deco earrings can be found with the original screw-back findings.

As you study this era, remember that there were many different styles made during the 1920s and ‘30s, and materials like Bakelite were also being used, so not everything dating to the period will fit perfectly into the definition of art deco. You’ll also find that there have been several deco revival periods, so some pieces with an art deco look can be much newer. Starting with the basics, however, you can get comfortable with what’s true deco and what’s not, as this captivating period has another moment in the spotlight.

Pamela Siegel is a freelance writer and author who has been educating collectors for more than two decades. In addition to three books on topics relating to antiques and collectibles, she frequently shares her expertise through online writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela is also the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Chic Antiques by Pamela.

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