Wearing gemstones is a treat, but another fun thing about them is discovering some of the associated history and lore. Most people know that amethyst is the birthstone for February babies. But did you know in ancient times, wearing this gem was considered an antidote for getting a little too tipsy? In fact, the name comes from amethystos, a Greek term that translates to “a remedy against drunkenness,” according to the Gemological Institute of America.
The color resembling vino also led to an association with the gods of wine and indulgence—Dionysus in Greek lore and Bacchus in similar Roman tales. Some people also believed amethyst donned in battle—either in war or in business—would keep the wearer’s head in the game. Those who believe in the power of crystals still wear the stone for inspiration and mental vigor.
Amethyst is a type of quartz, so today, despite its intense beauty and popularity, it’s usually not viewed as a rarity or of extreme value on its own. That wasn’t always the case, though. These semi-precious gems were once as highly valued by royalty as precious stones like emeralds, rubies, and sapphires when they were primarily mined in Russia. They were also associated with higher-ranking clergy and frequently worn by bishops.
After an abundance of this gem was found in Brazil in the 1800s and more discovered in other parts of the world later, it became more widely available. The desire for these lovely purple stones at a wide range of price points expanded, but that never discouraged the use of the most beautiful specimens in adornment produced by high jewelers.
Amethyst in Antique Jewelry
While amethysts, both cabochons and faceted varieties, can be found in many pieces of ancient jewelry residing in museums, the oldest examples jewelry aficionados run across for purchase are usually set into Georgian designs. Since those have been considered scarce for a while now, lovers of older jewelry often turn to Victorian examples to get their amethyst fix more readily.
From pendant earrings to beautiful brooches and even cameos carved from amethyst, it’s not too hard to find jewelry made from the mid-to late-1800s embellished with varied hues of these purple gems. One of the lightest is a light purple color with a pink tinge nicknamed “Rose de France,” which has its own following among collectors.
Even though the stones aren’t intrinsically highly valued, antique jewelry set with amethysts is a different story. The most intricate and desirable designs, whether made of gold or silver, sell into the thousands, and even plainer pieces can bring hundreds.
Fine Jewelry Incorporating Amethyst
There are many notables in the world of fine jewelry known for creating small works of art adorned with these semi-precious stones. One of them was the Parisian firm founded by René Boivin in the 1890s. These pieces change hands through high-end auction houses, and they’re simply exquisite. Since the firm is no longer in business, not everyone is familiar with the brand, but other very recognizable companies also made good use of these gems.
The famed “Bird on a Rock” design by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. was produced in amethyst versions, and Cartier reciprocated with their “Free as a Bird” pendants. Another famed Cartier bib necklace exquisitely highlighting perfectly matched amethysts with turquoise accents was worn by the Duchess of Windsor in the 1950s, and they’ve used them in many other designs as well.
Others like Van Cleef & Arpels and David Webb have also elevated this type of quartz to new heights. Because of the quality and name recognition, purchasing any of these pieces can require deep pockets, with $10,000 being a starting point and moving into the high five-figure territory. A few best of the best designs top the $100,000 mark.
Affordable Amethyst Jewelry
If you were hoping to add a piece of amethyst jewelry to your own stash or pick up some pieces you can flip for a profit, that’s not a problem at all. Lower-quality amethyst jewelry is readily available in the marketplace in both vintage and newer varieties. You’ll find designs set in 10-karat gold for $100 or less, while 14-karat gold settings can sell higher but can also be bargain-priced occasionally. The price also depends on the age and style of the piece and whether accent stones like diamonds surround the stone(s).
Amethysts set in sterling silver can be the most affordable of all. It’s not uncommon to find silver for a ring, pair of earrings, or pendant necklace set with inexpensive genuine stones (usually light in color) in the $25-50 range. Some are art deco revival designs made much later than the 1920s and ‘30s, so take care when pinning a date on them.
If you want to step up your silver game regarding vintage jewelry decorated with these purple gems, that’s certainly possible. Mexican silver artisans working in Taxco from the 1930s through the ‘60s also made many beautiful examples available for $100-200. However, those marked by the best Taxco workshops like Antonio Pineda, Hector Aguilar, and the master William Spratling will sell for considerably more.
Many other jewelry designers, including John Hardy and David Yurman, incorporated these purple gems into silver jewelry selections beginning in the 1970s and ‘80s. Prices have moderated for quite a few of those styles compared to what they were worth in the aughts and 2010s, but they still have their fans and merit a second look as long as you do some pricing research before spending too much on them.
Imitations in Costume Jewelry
You might think that purple glass stones simulating amethysts would be the most inexpensive of all. In some cases, they are indeed on par with lesser quality silver styles selling from $20-40 or so. But there are also some real beauties that bring hundreds or even thousands out in the vintage marketplace.
For instance, Joseff of Hollywood jewelry incorporating imitation amethysts can easily sell in the hundreds and sometimes bring even more. Many other fashion jewelry companies created sought-after jewelry with purple stones in the ‘40s, ‘50s, and ‘60s, too, including Schreiner, Trifari, and Hobé, so always keep that in mind as you’re evaluating your finds.
Pamela Siegel is a freelance writer and author who has been educating collectors for more than two decades. In addition to three books on topics relating to antiques and collectibles, she frequently shares her expertise through online writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela is also the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Chic Antiques by Pamela.
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